Br. [James L.] McMurrin & [David O.] McKay were at Aberdeen and did not come home until after midnight. In the morning I met them & arranged to go to Edinburg [Edinburgh] after breakfast, they went to the train with me and showed me the fine City building of Glasgow with its fine marble Halls & staircases also many statues, and put me on the train. the scenery was most picturesque more hilly than England & different arrived safe Br. [James K.] Miller & [William] Worthington & Gardner all came to meet me and we had a fine dinner at their lodgings, then they went out with me but only Br. Miller accompanied me to the places of interest too numerous to mention here. Holyrood & Edinboro, John Knox’s house and the place where the Saints were burnt at the Stake & when the day was done and I was worn out I slept at the {p. 189} New Waverly Hotel which opened into the Colton church yard

This morning we visited a few places early and then to the Bridge of the Frith on the Forth [Firth of Forth] a most stupendous piece of architecture such as few men in the world I think could plan and execute. When we returned it was time to catch the train for Glasgow tho’ we called upon the Whites– I reached Glasgow and was utterly astonished to hear Mrs. Gates was coming to go home with us. The meeting in Glasgow was given into my hands to manipulate tho’ Br. McKay presided & I had him ask the other sister to speak first that I might not take all the time {n.p.}¹

Today I had a long talk with Br. McMurrain [McMurrin] and went out to see a little of Glasgow with Br. [Thomas] Kerr of Wellsville and secure one or two little mementoes of Scotland and for the voyage I had a good chance to see street after street of the same sort up hill and down, Br. McKay and Eccles were all attention to those who were to sail, there were besides myself Susa Y. Gates Margaret A. Caine Miss Hapgood of Bradford Mrs. Cornick and child from Wales, Elders Owen, [James T.] Poulton [Louis C.] Duncan & Brown and Willie Salter. John Farquahar Esq. of Glasgow came to call on me we had a long talk he bought my book and subscribed for my paper– told me much of his history. We came aboard about eight o’clock came down the Clyde on a small river boat and were introduced {p. 190} to Mr. Richardsen the agent of the anchorline.

Today we shoved out tho last night we set sail and we reached the Irish coast at 2 p.m. Moville it looked romantic from the steamer green and beautiful an old castle a perfect ruin visible for some distance, towns and battlements showing plainly it had once been a famous stronghold, numerous dwellings among trees and an old church with tall steeple, several from the Fernessia rowed over to the Island while we waited there and the mail was landed Margaret went and brought back flowers thistle and shamrock and other varieties. bits of rock from the old castle– the first day was fine. evening on deck superb‒ secured chairs and places at Captains table also the ship Doctor at the {p. 191} other end‒ young and handsome

Yesterday I wrote some letters. one to Mell and Verona and to Emily and sent them off to Irish coast to be mailed from there. The day was fairly good I stayed on deck part of the time and read all day nearly in the book by Wm. Black I had bought in Scotland “White Heather.” A very odd and interesting story out of the common, I wrote a letter to Daisie to mail when we reach New York. I slept uncomfortably the berth is low and no room for one to rise up at all though we have plenty of air, as it is an outside room and we leave the porthole open all night, being close to the deck on the saloon floor there is an awful noise all night long, and the waves dashing when the wind rises causes one many serious reflections {p. 192}

I laid in bed late, the day was fine however and both Susa & Margaret were fasting and so they too slept late. However we all went to lunch and on deck Susa was reading the Book of Mormon and I was interested in the White Heather & a magazine, we enjoyed the sea with its delicious waves and colors amazingly. There are not many passengers to interest one, they seem mostly dull & common place and not up to any very high standard. In the evening a few gathered in the saloon to sing and a number of hymns were sung a Mr. Nordcross leading the choir and a young Irish girl at the piano. A Mrs. Bruce recited an original poem‒ {p. 193}

During the night the wind rose and the rolling of the vessel became intolerable many passengers were ill. I was really sea sick and could not rise and the fog came up too so that the horn had to be blown I lay all day without food and very ill and could scarcely get rest at all. I tried hard to overcome it but it was not possible. I could not read I could not talk I could barely think and much of home and my dear ones. Somethings in the past and what had transpired in the past few weeks since leaving Utah. The many amusing incidents, the great fund of information the stigma of Mormonism & so the day wore on {p. 194}

This is another sick day I am still unable to move st[e]wardess entreats me to take nourishment & I have taken a little, and could read a few lines. How many years have flown & what stirring events have transpired during the last few years. My life seems wonderfully changed and developed What further changes are yet to come I know not. Certainly a remarkable destiny and a most romantic life, but I had planned to do some writing on the steamer & now here I am not even able to read. Dr. Pratts birthday, she is 60 today {p. 195}

Today I am better and got up about noon and went down to lunch afterwards up stairs and finally out on deck for two hours or more went down to dinner as well, finished reading “A Gentleman of France” by Stanley Wayman, Memoirs of “Gaston de Bunne or Sieur de Marsac”. a finely written book. The day has been fairly propitious had a long talk while in bed this morning with Susa, between the two women Susa & Margaret I am kept well attended Mrs. Reid the stewardess is rather dominating but I think partial to me for some reason. The night is sort of misty and yet not fog enough to make use of the foghorn. How earnestly I pray for the loved ones at home & that all may be well with them. {p. 196}

Another fine day and I am better and tho I am not eating much yet I am able to crawl on deck and take a look around and saw a sailing vessel under full sail in the distance. I had the steamer ticket to fill out and also took a bath hot and felt a little faint afterwards, went to lunch and again on deck & did a little writing & reading went down to dinner but was not able to eat, and had an evening mostly to my self– a glorious sunset watched from the deck & the new moon just after in its magnificent beauty moonlight on the sea, and such a beautiful scene– {p. 197}

This is the birthday of the Governor of Utah Heber M. Wells, he is forty today and Charles Justus Earl [Justus Charles Earl] is forty five[.] I presume the Governor will be much honored if it is known, and my dear ones I wonder how it fares with them, but I shall soon know we have passed the banks of Newfoundland and are going south and getting on famously– it is expected we shall land Monday morning in New York harbor two months from the day I sailed on the Teutonic We saw a sail in the distance beautiful against the horizon and also a large steamer which we met only a few hundred yards from us, and a whale, went to the bow of the boat to see the sun set. It was a glorious sight. {p. 198}

This morning I was really ill had a fearful night, and could not get up, did not dress until 2. p.m. and then went down to write– day was fair and sea rough, and the white caps dashing and then went on deck & the rain began falling & black clouds threatened a storm, finally it began to pour & we were obliged to go down[.] after dinner the rain ceased and we went on deck again Watched the sun set tho’ clouds were lowering & Susa talked incessantly stayed until late but no stars appeared in the sky {p. 199}

This morning I did not go on deck early there was a fearfully dense fog and no one was allowed on deck except those who kept silence. The fog dispersed after a few hours and the sun burst forth magnificently and the blue waters of the sea were a picture of beauty to be remembered forever, sails in sight added much to the charm of the scene and steamers in the distance helped to fill the panorama with beauty. Whales & fish occasionally a shark hammerhead appeared for a moment. There was no servicce on board and the passengers were free to pass the Sabbath as they chose. Susa introduced me to Wallace Bueel [Buell] a poet of some consequence and he to his wife Annie, he talks of visiting Salt Lake. This evening the lady missionary from Persia Miss Russell of Cal. gave a talk on that country & Mr. McGregor spoke– {p. 200}

This was a glorious morning and the ship was in when we came on deck that is in sight of land and the flag of our own country waving from the prow, every one was delighted and up betimes– after much delay we came on shore and the custom house officers went thro the baggage and I finally reached the Bayard found Lena Wells who told me the joyous news of Annie’s twin boys² born July 28, weighing 8¼ apiece it was more than I had dared to hope, also that Emmie was married³ wonders will never cease I am sure, so much to transpire while I was away from home. June just came from Chicago this morning and is going to the City of Montreal not later than Wednesday Madame Mountford came home with Susa today. {p. 201}

This morning telegram came from John Q. <in answer to mine last night> saying all was well at home, which was very comforting. Have had a tedious day, wrote to Mrs. Dickinsen, Mrs. Robinson Miss Patterson Mrs. Alden, & C H. Clark but have had no word, went out with Madam Mountford & Susa to do some shopping, felt very weary came home in time for dinner. June thinks we must go at one p.m. because it is a better train than later in the day. Put on my best silk dress for dinner spent the evening with June Lena & Abbie no one else came, wrote postals to Lucy [Woodward Hewlings], Pallas, Delia [Cordelia Woodward Holden] & Hiram, packed my trunk & valise, bathed and read the century magazine and then went to bed to read again, this is my last day in New York and none of my friends have written to me {p. 202}

This morning a note from Mr. [Gilbert] Robinson saying his wife was still in Europe, went out with Abbie to buy one or two little things, gave her a gold ring, engraved A.H.W. New York is a great city and the thought comes forcibly to mind as one wanders about and watches the continuous streams of busy life ever surging on and on unceasingly. Left at 1/2 past 12 for Jersey ferry and June & M [Mahonri] M Young with me– met Madame Mountford & her brother Peter at the station. He is a veritable Jew in appearance. Soon flying Westward, passed thro’ Dover [New Jersey], & Scranton [Pennsylvania], Binghampton [New York] and other beautiful places, sat up very late. Susa went to bed early in Olando {p. 203}

<From Chicago on car Algonquin> Had breakfast on dining car tolerably good night awful noisy train, will send telegram from Chicago, dining car taken off very hot, car very full, and so dusty one cannot breathe. Read magazines and talked Susa read me Jacob [F. Gates]’s letters, from which I saw he felt very strongly how he needed her. Sent telegram from Chicago to John Q. asked him to tell Belle. I hope all is well with Em. and the others of the family. Somehow I dread going home lest there should be unpleasantness. I have had a remarkable time and the watchcare of the Lord has been over me without doubt. After leaving Chicago we went in to dinner Susa & she and I had bought Review of Reviews & Harpers in Chicago Station we read some, crossed the Mississippi by moonlight read until midnight– {p. 204}

Reached Council Bluffs [Iowa] early crossed the Mo. [Missouri] river and stayed in Omaha a few minutes long enough to eat in the dining car without motion of cars swaying. Mells birthday 49 years old hardly seems possible. I presume she resents her age being told must write her a letter– this is the fourth birthday in my family since I left home. Send dispatch from North Platte, Neb. to Mell Congratulations, blessings love happy returns, brilliant future, etc. day very hot. Read magazines and papers, and conversed at evening lightning very frequent. nervous dread of going home {p. 205}

This morning was fine, we moved into the car Samoa for Salt Lake, the other went on to Portland, had breakfast in dining car and lunch afterwards. When at breakfast met some ladies en route for San Francisco who were quite interesting, the youngest one had been at the University with George [O.] Buchholz. The Volunteers arrive in Salt Lake City today, great preparations have been made for their reception, arches built and decorated etc.⁴ We reached home about half past three Br. Gates came to meet Susa & brought baby I went direct with Louise & Emmeline to Annie’s and there saw the twin boys; fine fellows and stayed there until nearly night, then went to Belle’s Dot was there, Saw Sep, Em, Brent and all except Mr. Sears. {p. 206}

Slept at home Louise with me. This morning went to the office, and depot for my trunks then to the Tabernacle– Dr. [James E.] Talmage preached there were many strangers present, coming out met several friends and reaching Templeton saw Aunt Zina and we had a long talk together. Went to Annie’s and saw the family Emeline & Lyde [Eliza Free Wells] came to see her while I was there also Prest. A. M. Cannon, Margaret came home with me, we went to Beck’s to speak to Race [Horace N. Whitney] thro’ the telephone {p. 207}

Went to the office this morning, Sister Stevenson and Annie Hyde were there and others came during the day, Dr. Pratt had been in– Emeline & myself went to lunch down town was interviewed by Josephine Spencer for the Des. News. several people came to see me and the day wore away pleasantly, heard of the death of Thomas Woodbury whom I had known from childhood. Went down to Annie’s Saw the little baby clothes sent by Mell & Daisie, and visited a little while, then Louise came home with me to stay all night. I read some of my letters over and did what ever else I could, sat up quite late The weather has turned very cold, one needs a fire. {p. 208}

This morning went up late had many more callers and was invited to dine at Dr. Pratt’s with Br. Penrose we had a fine dinner Rulon came again today to see me Ella Hyde Ruth Fox Hannah [Free Wells], Abbie [Wells Chapin] and Nannah [Hannah Young Chapin] Rubie [Ruby Wells] & Lyde <Adeline [Woodward Earl]> and others, I did not feel very well, Margaret came down to stay‒ Annie has not been so well today we went over to see Dot & stayed a little while‒ then we went to bed quite early as I was not feeling well News & Herald have both had good notices. {p. 209}

Today Margaret & myself went up late and I found visitors as usual Sister Susan [Noble] Grant from Bountiful Lydia Ann [Alley Wells], Nett [Susan Annette Wells Culmer] & Cathie [Catherine Chapin Culmer], Lyde Aunt Lydia Ann & many more Rulon & Ort and several others‒ I came to Annie’s towards evening and had supper Louise & Emmeline had gone to the Lake with John Q. who was in uniform, the Salt Palace⁵ opened Monday it is a blaze of light again tonight. Good news from Prest Snow’s party in the North, Margaret came again because Louise & Em. had been to the Lake. Very cold weather for August, tried to write but felt too weary. {p. 210}

Today have had numerous callers Hannah & Litha [Tilitha Free Smith] and Sister M A [Mary Ann Price] Hyde and M W [Maria Wealthy Richards] Wilcox and Harry [Henry A.] Culmer and Ort and several more. I tried to do a little writing for the paper & sent a letter to Em. selected some spoons for her and did a few errands had my bonnet re trimmed went to see Annie & babies and Louise came home to sleep with me. John Q. went off fishing with Col. [Nephi W.] Clayton. I am full of anxiety about the paper not knowing how the money stands, tried to write but really could not being too weary. {p. 211}

This morning went up very late, began on copy Miss Evans writing, Sister B. W. Smith and E. J. Stevenson and Mary [Knight] Bassett Col. [Samuel A.] Merritt, Mr. Applegate and Sister [Rebecca Herrod] Doolan & Augusta Grant were all callers & others I do not remember. Prest. Geo. Q. Cannon will be home tomorrow morning. Had a letter from my brother Hiram today and Sisters. Atwood & Morris.⁶ Have written several pages today, my mind seems confused in regard to what to write, there is so much to be said. Margaret is here with me, I feel too weary to do much writing, the twins are four weeks old and weigh ten pounds apiece Annie took a ride over to the farm. {p. 212}

Today has been weary so many people coming and going & really no sort of respite, my letters many of them still remain unanswered, and no knowing when I can reply to them all. I am somewhat in hopes of getting on better by and bye. I must begin to pay regular tithing, and feel myself more secure in such matters. Today the City of Rome will sail from Glasgow, and Sister Jennings and Lucile and Sister McCune and [Amanda McEwan] Knight will return on it, & Br. Robert Anderson of Logan will come; and other Elders & Saints. I feel very glad indeed of this opportunity that has been given to me of taking this trip across the ocean and of meeting the great people I have and knowing something more of the world than heretofore. {p. 213}

Today is Louie’s birthday 37 years since, O, how my soul is wrought upon when I remember all that has transpired since that time. I am not well enough to go to the grave yard unless I had a carriage and the day is intensely hot. I went to the Tabernacle Dr. Talmage occupied the whole afternoon and I sat by Hannah Wells who had a great deal to say about matters in the Church. After meeting I went with Emeline to the laying of the corner stone of the Kearn’s St. Ann’s Orphanage, Bishop [Lawrence] Scanlon preached a fine sermon, Governor H. M. Wells and others made addresses etc.⁷ Went to Annie’s afterwards. The girls have been staying with me every night since I came home from abroad {p. 214}

This is a very hot day and I am trying to do copy & read proof etc.

Wrote to the Countess of Aberdeen and sent her one of my books– morocco bound. I pray it may open up the way for other things. {p. 215}

I am as busy as possible with callers and all that and can scarcely get through the days and answer all the necessary requirements Anniversary of Prest. Young’s death– twenty-two years ago have been over at Dr. Pratts a few minutes.

Belle came up and we went to the Royal Restaurant and had lunch together. She seemed more natural than for years, Em’s marriage has made a great difference in the household {p. 216}

Today have been uncommonly busy– sort of cloudy and heavy intended to go home to dress but did not get time, and after all went to Mrs. [Amelia Folsom] Young’s lawn-party as I was in the office. The crowd was all of young people except myself Mrs. Adams of Parowan⁸ and Mrs. Young and her two sisters⁹ and Madame Swenson the leader of the chorus. The young lady hostess was Miss Hattie Wallace and she had a fine party– tables under the trees, Chinese lanterns and so on all in great style. I was rather chilly and my principal enjoyment consisted in talking to a Miss Steward of Ohio, who is a warm personal friend of Mrs. Young’s came home alone at midnight and stayed by myself for the first time since my return {p. 217}

Today has been almost entirely devoted to Prest. F. D. Richards and wife. We talked over Society affairs and such like matters and Sister Richards told me of a conversation with the First Presidency on these matters, and we went to dinner together to Galligher’s restaurant– and afterwards back to the office and finished up in regard to the instructions to be given in future at Conferences etc. Sister Richards seemed in excellent spirits but Prest. Richards certainly appeared out of sorts. I had no time to make my preparation for addressing the Club on my trip to Europe, as they barely left in time for me to straighten up the office and make myself presentable about 35 ladies were present and I talked nearly two hours on the great receptions in London {p. 218}