July 1899

Pouring rain– Went to Convocation Hall Church House Deanery Westminster Abbey– Provident Schemes– Mrs. Sidney Webb [Beatrice Potter Webb] in the Chair– there I had the opportunity to speak and to explain our Relief Society fully its date of organization its thorough practical work its halls and buildings in this and other countries its practical work for those needing assistance.

Afternoon went to Fulham Place¹ and enjoyed to the utmost the house and grounds and the antique furnishings the old trees, the shrubbery, bridge and cemetery the old Church and the new chapel– in the evening we went to do one or two little things for ourselves and I went to look for a bookstore got frightened had a chance to get off one or two letters to people at home and in <London–> {p. 158}

This morning went to 36. Penton St. after going over to the Abbey and so forth– went alone on Bus. Arrived at last at Elder’s headquarters– went to testimony meeting Br. [George] Ellis presiding been in the Church 40 years. bore testimony so did Miss Booth and Lucy B. Young. Mrs. Jennings & Lucile were there then Walter Harold Harry [Harold P. Jennings] also– went to headquarters to lunch– and back to meeting Mrs. Clara [Sanders] Jennings came in the evening Sacrament was administered for which I felt grateful– spok again 20 minutes, H. Jennings spoke & Br. Ellis & a brother from home name not heard. after meeting many crowded around of the sisters and some brethren to talk of the Relief Society etc. hope to organize one here. it has died out. came home on the Bus. and felt very weary indeed– answered– more letters and invitations and wrote finish of editorial {p. 159}

Council Chamber Westminster Town Hall Mrs. Alec [Ethel Harley] Tweedie in chair– very good meeting Mrs. Caine gave her address and made a failure– Lady Georgina [Baille-Hamilton] Vernon’s paper very good. Ostrich Farming good by of New Zealand Rt. Hon. Viscount Templetown– good– sent up my card in discussion but were all cut off on account of time. dined with Dr. [Aletta H.] Jacobs & husband and M.P.² <Mr. Tervalayan [Sir Charles P. Trevelyan]> who promised to take Mrs. McCune & myself to Parliament House– Mr Garretson [Carel V. Gerritsen] husband of Dr. Jacobs is M.P. of Holland went in afternoon to two halls & heard all I could. also in the evening to Convocation Hall Church House it is most fatiguing to go three times in one day all Americans received at Cecil Hotel by Mrs. [Carrie Blackall] Griffin Mrs. De Fries [Katherine Johnson De Friese] & <Mrs. Fary [Fay]³ Mrs. Jennings & Mrs. Thomas & Kate were there Mrs. Farlowe & Lucile> {p. 160}

Breakfast for all foreign deligates etc. at Westminster Palace Hotel by the Town Hall Westminster Large Hall Business session– <Countess Aberdeen &> of the International Council had to wait at the door to get in as the first part was secret on account of International election being disputed– Countess Aberdeen herself not satisfied–

4.30 Gunnersburg Park by invitation of the Lady Rothschild and Mrs. Leopold [Marie Perugia] de Rothschild– the most magnificent gathering of all we have attended– beyond description; in mind and brain and heart forever engrafted.⁴ In the evening Farewell social gathering by the Countess of Aberdeen at the Royal Institute of Water Colors, the Picadilly the greatest cram of all the whole affair, not possible to find any one we knew Lady Marjorie Gordon Countess Aberdeens daughter helped officiate at breakfast– {p. 161}

Final Session of the International Council Agenda & Constitution gone over and proposed changes made– in the afternoon went quite alone to Lady Warwick [Georgina Baillie-Hamilton Vernon]’s Hostel– and Reading College– special train etc. and also to the English Woman’s Review had a lovely time met nice people Mrs. Hoodless and Mrs. Tucket of Canada– Hamilton also Miss Marris of Birmingham Mrs. Hopkins of New Zealand and Mr. Wright & Mr. Palmer also Mr. Benson of Reading College built on the site of the old Abbey and forming a part of the college– Countess very gracious–⁵ Went to the Tower and over London Bridge– {p. 162}

Went to meeting of National Council at St. Ermins– much talk proposed change in program of Business session from Indianapolis [Indiana] to some city adjacent to Washington or nearer and from November to Feb. 1900 near Miss Anthony’s birthday. Mrs. Sewall rather dominated. Mrs. Gaffney Mrs. Peck, Miss Bates Mrs. Grannis and Mrs. Wells– (myself) private interviews afterwards– went to dinner with Mrs. Mc’Cune tho she only paid for herself– I felt annoyed at not accomplishing more– it is terrible to be with a party who pull this way and that Madame Mountford came and she is overwhelming– Mrs. Sewall had a reception to which I did not go <wish to go>–in the evening stayed in to write went out a while with Lulu [Emma Lucy] Gates– Susa & her mother⁶ went to Stratfod on Avon [Stratford-upon-Avon] {p. 163}

Went to the Tower of London and saw much of interest jewels crowns Christening vessels for royalty of solid gold went over in a boat returned on shaw buss walked over London bridge and then got ready for Windsor Castle had tickets for cheap rates, and after much waiting & ceremony went inside the quadrangle and the queen drove past us as we stood we had a good view afterwards tea & refreshments in St. George’s hall and were shown State apartments– came home quite exhausted there were thirteen Utah women present which seemed quite remarkable⁷ {p. 164}

Went with Susa around London and hunted Dickens Old Curiosity Shop bought a picture of it and Susa got an old dish from there. I dare not spend money. Afterwards we <I> went to the Westminster Abbey alone and found one of my own name Johannis Woodward statue life size on a pedestal inscribed in Latin he was an eminent Dr. of Physics and the founder of Geology in College. I was much impressed by this accidental circumstance, did some writing sent off letters. Received one from Sister Horne giving some news about work in the Church Sister McCune moved from the Hotel. I felt very lonely and low spirited and after writing late went to bed and had a dream about my husband Prest. Wells, and 42. Islington Liverpool– and in the morning felt very much more melancholy {p. 165}

<Received letter from H. W. Naisbett [Henry W. Naisbitt] wrote to Br. Naisbett to day>⁸ After searching in vain for a letter and doing a little work on newspaper material I packed my trunks and paid my bill and started for 42. Great Percy St. where Mrs Mc Cune was located– paid driver 2. L. & 6 d. to take me and luggage. Th[e]n went to the meeting at Clerkenwell hall and heard several of the brethren speak, then home to a cup of tea Mrs. Caine came over and Mrs. Mc’Cune went to Stratford, where there is a branch & a Relief Society. After coming <meeting> I had a talk with the sisters about organizing and succeeded in getting an appointment for Wednesday night then Mrs. Caine, Brs. [Robert H.] Anderson & [John R.] Hindley and myself went home with Mrs. Everard & Mr. Sales, and had supper, it was a long distance and far to come back late at night– sat and wrote & read ever so late, went to bed about one p.m. {p. 166}

I really feel I am wasting my time, Mrs. Mc’Cune went away early this morning as soon as we had breakfast and I began clipping from newspapers about the Congress. Had a letter from Br. [George] Ruff of the Nottingham Conference in regard to visiting the saints there. Mrs. Caine came then I went over to Penton St. then we called on Madame Mountford then to the British Museum then back to Madame Mountfords and with her to Halborn’s Restaurant– and then walked to Chancery Lane and took a Bus for lodgings, Madame Mountford accompanying me then we went to Penton St then back again, then Br. [E. R.] Owen came from Cardiff Wales. to stay at the same house where we were Mrs. Perry’s– finally Mrs. McCune came home & we had a long talk then Br. Anderson went with Madame Mountford to the Bus and I began my writing {p. 167}

After doing some letter writing in the morning a telegram came from Mrs. Sewall for me to accompany the delegates to the American Ambassadors Mrs. Andrew A. Choate’s⁹ Carleton Terrace in the street where all the Consuls live. I was too early & went on to Westminster and waited until five at which time Mr. Choate’s porter said the reception began. I was seated in the library & office of the Ambassador and soon Mrs. Choate came herself and took me to the drawing room up stairs. we had half an hour nearly alone then Mr. Choate came in from the House of Lords, and soon the delegation came, and after we had refreshments & were waited {p. 168} upon by both Mr. & Mrs. Choate there were Miss S. B. Anthony Mrs. Sewall, Mrs. Mae of Chicago & Dr. S H [Sarah Hackett] Stevenson Chicago Emma [Cecilia] Thursby Mrs. & Miss Bybee, Mrs. Pierce, Mrs. Howard, Mrs. [Ida Husted] Harper Mrs. [Clara Bewick] Colby Mrs. Wells and two young ladies one was Miss Bybee– It was very pleasant– then Mrs. Harper & myself went with Mrs. Colby and Fray to see some of the London sights St. John’s old Church where Canon Wilberforce preaches and thro parts of W. Abbey then Westminster Slums and Strutten [Strutton] Market filth vulgarity and swarms of children; then home.

¹⁰|this morning was ill could not sit up until one after that we went to the Parliament House and Mr. Provan of Edinboro district who has been in H C¹¹ for 15 years took up us to tea & lunch on the terrace with Sir Phillip Fish & Lady Fish Mr. McMaster and two young ladies. then {p. 169} thro’ the House of Commons and adjacent rooms. we sat in the Speakers seat and in Gladstone’s– saw the table where Cronwell [Cromwell] signed the deathwarrant of Charles the first, then went to Penton 36. and re-organized the Relief Society. after which we went home and talked.

<This morning Thursday–> ¹²|Packed up and moved things to 36. Penton then went with Br. Hindley & the girls to St. Paul’s Church, and then to the Crystal Palace where we walked around the most beautiful grounds and fine old trees & flowers and up and down and thro’ and thro’ galleries of pictures and statuary saw the fine organ, heard the bands of music and saw thousands of people and finally partook of refreshments and bought seats for the fireworks about 9.15. the fireworks begun everything beautiful Atlas with the world on his back, men dancing, & boxing and bicycling in the flames, also figures of Queen & the son Prince of Wales in the tableaux & God save the Queen by the band. {p. 170} <The Red Lion Hotel is where many literary people go‒> and very much more, rustled to get home, so late at night, slept with Mrs. M. A. Caine at 36. Penton St.

¹³|and left there for Cambridge after going to Paternoster Row and some other interesting places, bought Olive Schreiner’s new book in Paternoster Row, lunched with Br. Anderson at a fine restaurant and took the train for Cambridge. On the way was very greatly interested in the scenery, and the towns along the route were pretty and some were specially picturesque, I stayed at University Arms a quaint old place with an imposing archway at the front, and went to the college grounds and across the bridge over the river Cam, then to the old trees hundreds of years old and after dinner went to the station to inquire about a train for Sawnton [Sawston] where Claudius V S [Spencer] had directed me to find Sister [Hannah Tapfield] King’s friends but could not get a train so late. {p. 171}

¹⁴<should have been July 15.> <Next morning made further inquiries at bookstores and learned that it would be a mile and a half from the station and no conveyance except to hire one, so sent the letter by mail enclosed in another envelope; then to the colleges and looked up on Dr. Woodward who founded the Professorship of Geology & Natural History and which is named after him,>

<bought Jane Austins [Austen’s] novel Emma in an old bookstore> next morning made further inquiries and investigations round about college buildings, saw manuscripts & written matter concerning Dr. John Woodward whose statue I found in Westminster and also the large life-sized head & bust oil painting very old style prominent nose high forehead, bushy hair or wig, ruffled shirt bosom, and a sort of belligerent face I should say not showing so much refinement as the one cut in marble. saw the house & grounds where Mrs. [Dinah Mulock] Craik wrote her John Halifax Gentleman Wrote a letter to Mrs. [Louise] Creighton & did a lot of sight seeing saw the Lodge where George Eliot staid when there. Took train {p. 172} for Nottingham sam[e] night Arrived there found no Elders no conveyance hired a cab and drove to the address of the Elders. Here I found Mrs. McCune and Elder Naisbett waiting for me had supper and talked with Br. Ruff, the President saw Mrs. Lettie Dewey Campbell and her new baby three days old. We went to lodgings engaged for us by Br. Ruff very comfortable

& had breakfast there ¹⁵|Sunday Morning as we were to drive to Eastwood a distance of ten miles in large waggonettes or something of that sort. The next morning was glorious and the scenery as far as eye could reach was English in the reality roses & beautiful flowers adorned the houses highways & hedges. S. S.¹⁶ Review was first and very good I spoke to the children a few minutes, then dinner then afternoon meeting, spoke again. {p. 173}

Monday we settled and went out for the day to Nottingham Castle, silk factory, Arboretum New grave yard where Elder [Jesse Y.] Cherry is buried and to Robinhoods cave and I went in a long way, in the castle we saw many quaint old things & quantities of old lace & tapestry, and in the evening met with the Relief Society– {p. 174}

A terrible thunderstorm came up and we had to stop in an alley way to avoid being drenched Br. Ruff and Br. Naisbett Sister McCune and myself had lunch in a restaurant while out. I spoke most of the time in the meeting. We slept at the same place & in the morning <July 18> Br. Naisbett left with me for Stratford on Avon, the journey was fine as we went thro many fine towns had to pass Birmingham <on> the way and handsome villa’s & gentlemans country seats. Some were known to Naisbett we reached Stratford on Avon in time to see a little of the town after registering at the Falcon and going to a Shakespeare restaurant for dinner, went through the principal streets and the Church looked out from the high steeple at the sweet calm Avon gently flowing as of old saw the pretty shipps glide down {p. 175} rambled about caught sight of “Ye Halle’s Croft” a curious old house where Marie Correlli is staying– sent in a card by the porter promised me an interview at nine fifteen of course I was elated, called and was admitted, she had a dinner party but that was nearly over ladies had left the table. She was most cordial, kissed me gave me her autograph and told me much of her stay at the Falcon and urged me to see the quaint leathern bottles and bells that chime which are all named. I slept in the room where she wrote the Sorrows of Satan. is writing two book now gave me a cup of coffee & maccaroons delightful, drest in white hoary silk.¹⁷

Wednesday {p. 176} July 19. Rose early walked to Anne Hathaway before breakfast‒ green lanes thatched roofs field lilies and all the cha[r]ms of scenery nature gives in that beautiful country. In the afternoon visited the chapel & Golden Lion where Washington Irving wrote some of his famous works, Shakespeare’s home & other place which I shall describe and took train for Warwick did not reach there but Leamington where we stayed at a Hotel and spent the evening with Naisbetts friends, related to Sister Stevens 7th. Ward.

July 20 Went on to Warwick journey hot & tiring visited Kenilworth Castle most delightful day, also Warwick Castle same day then on to Birmingham had supper at a house of our people saw much destitution. had meeting in the evening in the chapel owned by our {p. 177} own people, spoke for some time and then Mrs. Jennings & Mrs. McCune, we occupied the entire time. Mrs. Farlowe and Lucile were both there– slept at Br. Cooks.

Left early June¹⁸ 21. in pouring rain and took train for London arrived too late for Mrs. Everard’s party to go up the Thames– dined at restaurant with Br. Owens, went to Sister Perry’s to sleep, Sister Alder came in from Trowbridge and stayed there also. The ride from Birmingham to London lay through a charming country and when the rain ceased the scenery showed to perfection and there was much to recall of what had passed in the last few days. {p. 178}

In the morning we went to fix the trip to Paris at Cooks & to the home of George Eliot first, but it was away out in Chelsea and we took a bus riding along the principal London streets passing the houses of the richest noblemen & bankers on our route. At last we found it No. 1. Cheyne Walk Chelsea London. I could not see the garden at the back as it was all fenced round by high houses and high walls, but the high brick wall in front answered the description given me by Miss Field & others the big brass knocker and iron gate high as the wall, we had the door opened by a little maid who told us we were not permitted to see the interior, but finally flung open the doors strait on and we got quite a view. {p. 179}

Last night just after nine caught the train from Westminster <London> bridge for Paris to sail by way of New Haven [Newhaven, England] & Dieppe [France]‒ arrived 12 M. at New Haven after a tedious ride & went on board steamer then up about half past three for train again and got into Paris 8 Sunday morning. Found our rooms assigned of course there was not a soul I knew, had breakfast & lay down to rest, wrote one or two letters and rested until dinner had no lunch preferred to rest The Hotel London & New York faced a Boulevard where a perfect panorama presented itself continuously and one might see & hear & fancy anything. I went out for my first walk in Paris alone knowing not one single soul in all that city {p. 180}

I succeeded very well in my walk through parks & wide boulevards not venturing far. Monday morning breakfast over Cook’s carriage was at the door. I was pleased with the ease and elegance of the outfit 2 span of white horses cover over the top and seats sixteen or more I sat next a military gentleman who paid me marked attention during the entire also his son was extremely polite, he saw I was alone and for what reason I know not waited upon me attentively and with great courtesy. He paid for me to enter all the places where money was required and for the lunch we had at the Royal Hotel– No man could show greater kindness to his sister. He gave me his card and invited me to call at his house in Manchester [England] on my trip thro England His name struck me forcibly and {p. 181} he told me he was a Scotch man but lived in England Major Robert Fred Ballantine– he was a strict Temperance man but not a Prohibionist. I feel there will more come from this casual meeting. In the evening I tried a short walk in another direction and the view from the drawing room which was very fine.

Tuesday another gentleman took possession of me in a similar way. the Major was in another carriage tho we met at luncheon and had a little talk and he regretted we were not in the same carriage and his son also expressed the regret that we were not able to converse. Mr. [James H.] Osmer was even more talkative {p. 182} than the Major, was an ex member of Congress from Penn. knew much of politics and was glad I was a Republican guessed I was a Yankee but from Colorado because I talked about voting wanted to introduce me to his wife¹⁹ and so on as soon as we reached the hotel, she was not able to take the rides. however it was later on in the evening we were introduced for I went for a stroll, and while talking freely with me she asked me plainly where I was from in the West which of course I told– then she wondered if I knew the Mormons and we talked on and on, she called her husband to tell him I knew Mr Stevenson who had been their guest and so on. Neither one had any prejudice, we had been that day to Versailles [France] a most charming place & day one of the best {p. 183}

<Wednes July 26> This was the last day of the excursion and we took Paris. That evening I talked to Mr. & Mrs. Osmer Miss Stanley of Bramford Canada & Miss [blank] of Boston and a Chicago girl till past midnight–

and today Thursday I went over much more, went out with the two spinsters & bought one or two little things and after much ado and many promises we parted to get ready for leaving & to dine. We talked after to Mr. & Mrs. Walker & Mr. Osmer until I nearly made myself late and finally got in the same [c]ar with the three spinsters Canada Boston & Chicago– and sped off {p. 184} These women all sort of clung to me but first I got in a car with a woman who had just come from Madrid [Spain] a governess for some young girl and had lost her luggage but the Boston girl came after me and would not take no for an answer and took me bag and all off to their car– a[n]d we kept together after that, there was a governess there too an old maid who had been in Paris & was worn out she kept on taking one thing and another well we soon reached the boat & the night was superb and when we took the train again the moon was brilliant

arrived in London²⁰ safe Friday morning & and bade these new friends good bye went to Penton found letters from Mrs. Creighton, and others none from home left for Liverpool and reached there at night Prest [Platte D.] Lyman & [Joseph C.] McFarlane came to meet me {p. 185}

Slept Last night in the old house at 42. Islington in the wonderful shipping city, where our people have been so long sending off shiploads of saints & where the Star has been printed so many years. Had many reflections of a serious nature, Br. Lyman is very lovely to me and the office people have paid me great attention. Sister H◊◊◊◊◊◊ensen the housekeeper adores Rule so do all the men I slept little read some but spent most the night thinking. Br. Lyman and myself took the train for Manchester at 4. p.m. and reached there in time to have a pleasant evening Br. Nesbitt & Sister McCune & Caine were there we went off to lodgings and had a very poor place I slept alone however & read most of the night. {p. 186}

<Father Kelly from the Isle of Man came & went to Manchester> Sunday morning we went to the Conference house to Breakfast & then to the hall to Priesthood meeting. A great outpouring of the Holy Spirit and a power that was a refreshing from on high rested upon Prest Lyman I realized something of the spirit of Joseph Smith and could have prophesied then and there but held my peace except to respond in a few words when called upon. In the afternoon by my own arrangement with Prest. Lyman Sisters McCune and Caine spoke also Br. Naisbett and in the evening I had the greater part of the time Br. Lyman taking the remainder. Here we met Miss [Ann] White of Z.C.M.I.²¹ & her sister of the Royal bakery Mrs. [Margaret White] Urie. Slept in Manchester again {p. 187}

Br. Lyman & myself took train for Liverpool about ten. Br. Naisbett having gone the night before & Sister McCune going off to Oxford and Sister Caine to Bolton. We had a pleasant trip and reached Liverpool before dinner. Sister Dowall came she is hunting genealogy & lives in Centerville [Utah]. Br. Carlson came and expressed great friendship for me which was gratifying considering Prest. Lyman knew me so little. I left there for Glasgow²² by the 3.5 train Br. McFarlane seeing me off reached Glasgow late at night Br. [John] Young came to meet me & Br. [David C.] Eccles of Ogden [Utah] was at the house, some young girls were there & sung for me {p. 188}